The Diplomat's little colored stone markers are better than I expected

I wasn't expecting the gemstone markers to be the bit I liked about this watch, but the little blue and green baguettes work. Archi Works and Amsterdam Vintage Watches have kept the rest of The Diplomat 1.87 so restrained that those colored markers have room to stand out. I'd put it at 92 out of 120 bezel clicks, with the cooler Azure slightly ahead for me.

There are two executions: Aurora, with a warm cream-and-yellow dial treatment and emerald baguettes, and Azure, with silver and gray tones and sapphire baguettes. Both use brilliant-cut diamonds for the other hour markers. Amsterdam Vintage Watches identifies the gemstones as lab-grown. This is one shared model with two dial configurations, limited to 100 watches in each.

A sector dial with a little jewelry in it

The thin polished bezel leaves plenty of room for the dial, and the small-seconds register sits down at six with the curved Amsterdam Vintage Watches signature above it. The brushed chapter ring and railway-style markings give the stones some fairly serious company. I prefer that to covering the whole thing in sparkle, because I can still see the dial layout that made me look twice.

The case is 35 mm in 316L stainless steel, with long, narrow lugs and drilled tips. That's smaller than my usual instinct, and I would want to see how those lugs spread it across a wrist before assuming it wears tiny. The official dimensions give 8.65 mm excluding the 1.4 mm crystal. Calling it an 8.65 mm watch without that qualification would leave out a fairly visible part of the case.

A hand-wound movement you can see

The partners call the movement a hand-wound La Joux-Perret / Peseux 7001. Their specifications list a 50-hour power reserve and describe Soigné-grade decoration, including striped bridges and heat-blued screws. Release coverage also uses the D100 name; I'm keeping the partners' own naming here rather than pretending those labels are separate movement options.

There's a sapphire exhibition back, a stated 5 ATM water-resistance rating and a 19 mm Molequin Oxford Saffiano leather strap with quick-release bars. The side of each case is individually numbered. These are listed specifications, and I haven't tested the winding, finishing or fit of either version.

The euro price is clear; the US total isn't

Archiwatch lists €2,250 excluding taxes, with shipping included, as checked November 8, 2026. It says the watches became available November 7 at 10:30 PM CET and would ship the following week, explicitly describing this as a release rather than a preorder. That supplies an on-sale date; the original announcement time remains uncertain. A dated US retail price and the final US import total aren't confirmed, so this page stays off the dollar-price chart.

I like the small colored markers, the blued hands and the space around the seconds register. The size is the question I'd need to answer in person. At 35 mm, those long lugs could make the difference between a compact watch I'd enjoy and one I'd keep wishing were a little bigger.